Une soirée en ville: Hei La Moon for Dim Sum
November 17, 2006
If you’re a fan of Chinese food, you have most likely tried or at least heard of Dim Sum, a traditional Chinese meal similar to an American breakfast or brunch (as it is customarily served on Sundays) which usually leaves you both satisfied and with money in your pockets as you walk out the door. Dim Sum is a great activity to include in your weekly routine or an activity to do with a big group of friends. Moreover, it’s definitely a much more authentic experience with Chinese food compared to takeout from Panda Palace.
It used to be common knowledge that China Pearl, dead set in mid Chinatown set the standard for Boston Dim Sum. However, I have been fortunate enough to stumble upon a hidden gem, Hei La Moon. Located on 88 Beach Street right before Boston’s grandiose Chinatown gate, Hei La Moon is the next best thing in Dim Sum and ranks high on Best of Boston: 2006’s list of best new restaurants. Furthermore, it’s suitable for students since the cost is a very college-friendly price of under $20! (I would personally say that you’d eat fully with $12-13.)
The actual process of getting into Hei La Moon could be rather hectic. The trick is avoid the peak time, which is from 11am to 1pm (no reservations needed), however, if you should find yourself hungry at that time, be prepared to fight your way into the restaurant. Once you are in amongst the ant farm of people, seating and service are prompt. I would recommend their Black Tea, which is more flavorful and stronger than the flowery alternate Jasmine Tea. If you must get another drink, make it water because other drinks, even a simple Pepsi, will cost an arm and a leg, and then don’t even compliment the food well.
The food at Hei La Moon is a bit pricier than at its rival China Pearl, yet the quality is slightly better. Served in adorable bamboo steamers, most of the dishes took on a healthier spin, being steamed rather than fried, and many items were actually quite mainstream. Clearly, there is the typical Pheonix’s Claws, a fancy term for chicken’s feet (don’t feel embarrassed if you don’t like them, because I don’t find them appetizing). This is among the rarest dishes on the menu, and there are plenty of other tasty things up for grabs.
Now for a little more on the unconventional side: sticky rice filled with raisins or beans, wrapped in a banana leaf will appeal to those who have a tongue for Southeast Asian flavors. Shao Mai, a spin off of your typical Chinese dumpling, is bigger in size at Hei La Moon and includes many atypical ingredients, such as mushrooms and carrots. If you’re new to Dim Sum, you’ll find that the Chinese tend to eat a lot of shrimp in the morning, so if you’re allergic or not so hot on shellfish, you might have a hard time with selection. However, if you like shrimp as I do, you’ll find plenty of things to eat. Bits of baby shrimp permeate the thick rice noodles and the liberal accompaniment of sweet soy sauce is a slight mess to eat, but comes out as one of my favorite dishes. The steamed shrimp dumplings both with fried taro and chives are also an amazing treat.
Some of my other Hei La Moon favorites include: Shao long bao (pork dumplings), Shark Fin Dumplings (which are one of the pricier things on the menu, however, extremely worth it; shark fin is almost always served in soup), congee (similar to sticky rice without the banana leaf wrap), Chinese greens served with oyster sauce, and last but not least, turnip cakes (definitely worth a try).
If you are a vegetarian, you’re in luck! Unlike most Chinese feasts, at dim sum you can get by with plenty of greens in the morning. Delicious steamed dumplings have leek and baby sprouts tucked inside; I highly recommend these upon your visit to Hei La Moon.
For those with a sweet tooth, the typical Dim Sum dessert may seem a little odd, but after becoming accustomed to the taste, most people become fond of the idea. Ranked high on my list is tofu-fah, which a soft tofu served with a sweet syrupy sauce. It tastes like honey with a much sharper texture. It can come off as being too sweet in some cases, but I found it to be more than bearable (I usually seek the more savory-flavored foods anyway). Regardless, everyone should try tofu-fah as it is one of the few things on the dessert menu you can get at a Dim Sum restaurant. Many other items can be found in your common Chinatown bakery: egg tarts, shao long bao with bean paste (think mooncakes) and fried sesame balls.
So if you find yourself and a group of friends in Chinatown on a Sunday morning, make Hei La Moon your one stop. Do not let the long line to get in deter you. Just think, on any given Sunday, you’d have to wait a little while to get into any brunch restaurant serving brunch. When dim sum is concerned, you might as well wait for the best.
Steph Chin is a sophomore majoring in International Relations. Une Soirée en Ville is a column exploring the unfamiliar hot spots and alternative aspects of Boston life.