You and Me and Authentic Mexican Food

December 1, 2006

by Steph Chin

I have never really been a fan of Mexican food. A bowl of mile-high Spanish paella has always been far more appetizing than a chicken burrito (unless, of course, we are talking about an Anna’s burrito). However, there is another breakthrough in fine Mexican dining that sits very close to home, just next to the rotary of death in Powderhouse Circle. A far cry from all of the sour cream, guacamole, and (packaged) hot sauce you would find in typical fast food Mexican joints, Tu y Yo is located on 858 Broadway, Somerville, and bears a front door that states bluntly, “Adios, burritos.” It’s a charming rhyme that speaks nothing but the truth.

I was excited to be embarking on a new dining experience, as I don’t eat half the things they serve at what we typically know as Mexican restaurants. There is no mention of quesadillas or chimichurris on Tu y Yo’s very ornate menu, but I’ve come to know that the Chi-Chis and Border Cafés we think are Mexican places are, in reality, considered “Tex-Mex” cuisine by real foodies.

As Tu y Yo has been the first authentic Mexican restaurant I’ve been to, I apologize if this review is not as knowledgeable as it should be. By that same token, the eatery does not stand out on my A-list of restaurants, nor would I eat there again, but my reasons are not necessarily because the food was less than mediocre, but more so because my taste buds probably just reject what is truly authentic Mexican food. If you’re into meat and sauce, then Tu y Yo is for you.
The appetizers are actually the best features on the menu. If you try any one thing, try the sope, traditional Mexican hand-stretched corn flour dough, fried and covered with beans (a surprising blend of refried beans without the usual nastiness), melted cheese and onions, and your choice of accompanying vegetables. The dish, finished with a cilantro garnish, was delicious, the best thing I had all night, in fact. But after I quickly downed the sope, the rest of the menu failed to satisfy.

The night of good food ended abruptly as I tasted my entrée, Mole Colorado Tlaxcalteca. This dish, like many others was confusing to my pallet. The chicken breast, lightly battered and fried was done well but its natural flavors were truly thrown off by the sauce that adorned it. Not only was the dark brown and orange chunky paste known as “mole” to Mexicans unappetizing to the eye, it consisted of chocolate, almonds, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, peanuts, chipotle, and peppers… you name it, this sauce had it. If you ask me, chocolate and chicken, pumpkin seeds and red peppers, just don’t belong together.
The Mole Colorado Tlaxcalteca isn’t just a travesty on its own. The entreés that include just chicken and pork makes up the menu known as “Mom’s Cuisine” (which is endearing, I must say), but unfortunately just results in pieces of meat prepared the same way with variations in sauce. I tasted the beef dish, the Chile Relleno en Nogada, which is offered when available. Don’t be fooled by the amazing course description, which reads, “Poblano pepper stuffed with ground beef, almonds, raisins, peaches and cheese, covered in a sweet creamy sauce with pomegranate and cilantro.” The reality is a pepper-stuffed contraption filled with hamburger meat, not to mention the dish costs an arm and a leg. Granted, a pomegranate garnish does not come cheaply, but while the presentation was beautiful, I was disappointed with the taste.

You could definitely get more bang for your buck savoring the main ingredients in Tu y Yo’s only soup, or rather stew, the Mole De Olla. This hearty stew consisting of steak tips seasoned with traditional Mexican spices, squash, corn on the cob, green beans, pasilla (meaning “little raisin” in Spanish) peppers, epazote (a popular Mexican plant often seen in traditional tea) and garlic, is definitely the next best thing to try after the sope. One entrée I found to be decent was the Pipian Verde Colimense, a pork dish with a complex sauce that wasn’t as outrageous for the taste buds as my first entreé choice. The chile-infused pork loin was prepared with onions, garlic, and pumpkin seeds, and adorned with a sauce made from guajillo peppers, which are spicier than ancho peppers, but not as sweet.

If by this point you aren’t yet stuffed, Tu y Yo’s flan is a wise option for dessert. The flan is simple, which is good because most Spanish desserts are better when kept that way. It has the right combination of flavoring, the cinnamon cream sauce taking on the flavors of a scrumptious warm Cinnabon. Caramel has always been a bit too sweet for my taste, but Tu y Yo combines just the right amount of caramel with custard to perfect their flan, which comes out as something special but not too overdone. The presentation differed greatly from the main courses, as I found absolutely no flash when it came to the dessert, which I suppose, ultimately, is best since you don’t have to experience that hateful feeling of the dessert being too pretty to eat.

All in all, I have to say that authentic Mexican as portrayed by Tu y Yo was not really my cup of tea. However, it was obvious that both the chefs, with their unique choice of ingredients in concocting their meat dishes and accompanying sauces, and the waiters, with their impeccable service, made an effort to create a great dining atmosphere, at which they succeeded. I was won over by the restaurant’s inviting décor and the polite manner in which the staff treated me like family. Clearly, the creative genius of the chefs combined with the ambiance leaves a dent in your pocket, as the average price is marked at $22 per person. But at least I can say with certainty, it’s “Hola Anna’s” from now on.

Tu y Yo is open Monday through Thursday from 4 to 10 p.m., Friday 5 to 10 p.m., as well as Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. for brunch, and 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner.