No Wraps Allowed
December 8, 2006
The pioneering American food writer James Beard once remarked that “too few people understand a really good sandwich.” Fortunately, there is at least one place near Tufts where such understanding can be got: The All Star Sandwich Bar, which opened in Inman Square in September. The restaurant is the latest from Chris Schlesinger, the celebrity chef whose past projects include the East Coast Grill and Raw Bar (also in Inman Square), as well as the cookbook License to Grill.
All Star’s front door is inscribed with the line “A good sandwich is like an old friend,” and the small but diverse menu, which includes about a dozen different sandwiches and a handful of comfort-food sides, bears this out. But first, let’s get straight what is meant by a “sandwich.” These are not assembly-line subs or burgers. Nor—emphatically—are they flimsy, Atkins-friendly wraps: the place is covered in “NO WRAPS” stickers, and their slogan is “Wrap free since 2006.” The sandwiches offered at All Star are the genuine article: fresh, hand-sliced bread (often grilled) piled high with generous servings of hot or cold meat, veggies, and condiments. And boy, are they good.
The Reuben ($9.25) was a standout. The corned beef, which is made in-house, was warm, juicy, and delicious. It was served on buttery grilled rye bread, along with melted Swiss cheese and just enough Russian dressing to ooze out enticingly at the sides without making a total mess. A small scoop of minimalist coleslaw (cider vinegar and black pepper, no mayonnaise) and a quarter of a kosher dill pickle completed the plate.
The Cuban ($9.25) was also solid, with ham and roasted pork, Swiss cheese, sliced pickle, and mango spread on grilled French bread. The mango flavor wasn’t really detectable underneath all that savory meat and cheese, but who’s complaining?
For the more traditionally-minded, there are two kinds of roast beef on the menu: hot, with Real au Jus and horseradish ($9.25), or cold, with relish, thin-sliced onion, and Russian dressing ($7.25). We tried the cold version and found it to be on par with what you’d expect to get at any quality big-city deli.
Each day of the week presents the customer with a different Daily Special, and our visit on a Sunday offered the Gobbler (turkey, stuffing, cranberry relish, mayo, and gravy on white bread, $9.25) and a grilled chicken salad on marble rye ($6.95). Both were very good, although the Gobbler, perhaps owing to all the gravy, was a little on the salty side.
Vegetarians have only a few entrees from which to choose, and those rotate on a daily basis. During our visit the two meatless sandwich offerings were humus and roasted red peppers on white bread ($6.50) or a grilled vegetable Cuban ($7.00). Caesar and green salads ($6.50 and $3.75, respectively) are also available, and though the green salad came with a top-notch balsamic vinaigrette, it is unlikely to constitute a full meal. The soup of the day ($3.00/cup or $4.95/bowl) might also be vegetarian-friendly.
For a side dish, try the irresistibly named “Pile of Fries with Gravy” ($4.25), which is a big helping (enough for two or three people) of thin-cut, skins-on fries covered with a few ladles full of delicious gravy. Other options include warm apple and sausage stuffing (also available with gravy on top), German potato salad, and dill or sweet pickles.
All Star also serves a selection of wines and beers, plus the house lemonade, iced tea, and hot tea and coffee with free refills. Their chalkboard also advertises bottles of Cristal for $199, for those who enjoy a glass of bubbly with their tuna melt ($8.25).
At 2:30 on a Sunday afternoon, the one-room restaurant was full but not overcrowded. Our party of six was seated in about 10 minutes and the service after that was quick and friendly. The decor was bright and simple, with warm orange and teal walls, big windows, and an open kitchen where we could see the sandwiches being prepared next to big tubs of coleslaw and gravy. A jarful of complimentary Oreos at the register completed the homey vision.
Although the prices at All Star are somewhat higher than you might be accustomed to paying for a sandwich, and the location—about 15 minutes’ walk from the Central Square T stop—is a little inconvenient, the excellent food and comforting atmosphere make it more than worthwhile. Just as the inscription on the door advertises, the sandwiches here are good enough that they’ll soon become old friends.
All Star Sandwich Bar is located at 1245 Cambridge Street in Cambridge. They are open Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Visit allstarsandwichbar.com or call (617) 868-3065.