Italian Charm and Candlelight in Davis Square
April 13, 2007
The flicker of candlelight and burst of flames from the open kitchen illuminate the small, romantic dining room at Antonia’s Italian Bistro. Quiet conversations blend with the melodic vocals of Frank Sinatra playing softly in the background. No, this is not one of Boston’s North End trattorias but rather authentic Italian in t Somerville’s Davis Square.
On Friday evening my friend and I arrived at 8 p.m. at Antonia’s petite dining room, and it was packed. The hostess assured us that we would not have to wait long, and indeed we were seated five minutes later. We were instantly taken by the quaint space and the spectacle of an open kitchen. The dining room at Antonia’s is adorned with spiraled glass lights over ten tables covered in crisp white linen. Stained glass decor and one bold piece of Italian artwork hang on the beige walls and near the entry a fish tank glows blue in the dim light. At one end of the restaurant is the open kitchen where three chefs work masterfully to sauté and perfect their bold Italian dishes. Merely a meatball’s toss away,is the opposite side of the dining room where floor-to-ceiling windows overlook bustling Davis Square.
Three waiters dressed in black moved with precision around the dining room. Freshly made rolls and tall water glasses were graciously brought over almost immediately. Wine glasses were polished and already set on the table; we simply needed to choose our vino for the evening. The wine list showcased several regional Italian wines and also included selections from New Zealand and California. While I was partial to the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (Aussie roots…) we decided to order a bottle of Via Firenze Pinot Grigio from Italy. The fresh aroma of pears and ripe Granny Smith apples and a crisp finish, the Pinot Grigio was the perfect Italian choice and quite affordable ($22).
The scent of garlic and tomato sauce drifted from the kitchen and we knew our meals were bound to satisfy our appetite for Italian fare. The dinner menu boasts classic Italian dishes and distinct house favorites. Appetizers ranged from the traditional Antipasto ($12) to Caprice Salad, an array of mozzarella and tomato, drizzled with balsamic vinegar and olive oil ($9). A unique house specialty included Eggplant Rolls ($9), an eggplant stuffed with provolone cheese and basil, then topped with a light plum tomato sauce.
We decided to order the mesculen green salad ($9) mixed with balsamic vinaigrette, served with tomato, julienned and shaved precorino cheese. The presentation was fantastic, each tomato delicately arranged and just the right amount of vinegar and olive oil to flavor the greens.
Antonia’s prompt service assured that our wine glasses were topped off, salad plates were cleared promptly, and entrees were served at a leisurely yet timely pace. I ordered mussels fra diavolo ($12) fresh mussels sautéed in a spicy red tomato sauce (a larger entrée portion with linguine pasta is available for $16). The waiter was accommodating to my request to amp up the spice, and the chef did not disappoint. The flavorful blend of olive oil, garlic, basil, oregano, and red pepper flakes in the plump tomato sauce accented the mussels without overwhelming the dish. My friend ordered the Linguine Calamari ($16) a dish of sautéed calamari in a white wine garlic sauce over linguine pasta. The tender calamari were accented with hints of lemon and parmesan cheese, and delivered a satisfying pasto di calamari!
We finished our meals and lingered over our wine as the restaurant’s other patrons slowly retired for the evening. At one point the cooling oven vents kicked in and a cool draft prompted me to reach for my jacket. It was turned off at our request, and we stayed a bit longer without being rushed to pay the check. Antonia’s kitchen closes at 10p.m. so late night diners should stop by earlier to enjoy the Italian culinary delights conveniently located within walking distance of campus.
For a small Italian bistro, Antonia’s offers big specials, especially for Tufts students who are eligible to receive 20% off any take out order. The “Red Line Rush Hour” special offers hungry commuters the option to call Antonia’s before they leave work, anytime Monday through Friday 4p.m.-6:30p.m., and dinner will be waiting for pick up when they get off the T. And if an occasion arises that needs to make a gustatory impression, Antonia’s also caters for larger office and house parties.
Antonia’s is the perfect accompaniment to an evening show at the Somerville Theatre. Plus, JP Licks is located next door if you happen to save room for ice cream. Cozy, romantic and delicious cuisine at affordable prices; Antonia’s is everything Italian without the trip to the North End.
Antonia’s Italian Bistro is located at 37 Davis Square, call (617) 623-6700.