I need to talk about it sometime, seeing as how it’s probably the most pressing and controversial topic in the eyes of Americans. The very word “Islam” terrifies many and has been entangled with a mess of stereotypes and negative connotations, in the same way local perceptions of America have been grossly distorted here.
There’s no denying that Moroccan society is on the surface very religious. About 98% of the country is Muslim. I’ve met not a single man or woman of adult age who isn’t fasting for Ramadan or who doesn’t attend Mosque regularly. Five times a day, promptly, the call to prayer sounds off from Muaddins all over the city, a trance-inducing five-minute chorus of “Allahu akbar, allahu akbar, ashhadu alla ilaha illa Allah…” God is great! God is great! I testify there is no god but God! Come to prayer! Come to prayer!
Click for photo: The sunset at the first night of Ramadan, marking the end of the fast. At this moment 30 million Moroccans would all be preparing to eat dates, a bean soup known as harira, and other delicious foods.
Click for photo: Me infront of the biggest mosque in Africa--the Hassan II mosque, constructed in the late 1980s and named after the King/dictator who built it.
Click for photo: Religious calligraphy at the tomb of one of Morocco's greatest leaders, Moulay Ismail, in the city of Meknes.
(The first time, I was mesmerized, but have since found it a little repetitive. Perhaps others have too—Morocco used to house a large Jewish population, but the bulk took off in groves when Israel opened up, in search of better opportunities. Today Israel’s second largest population of Jewish immigrants comes from Morocco.)
If the call to prayer weren’t enough, most Arab television channels seem to have a general acknowledge of Islam. Intermittently throughout the day, the main local channel broadcasts to religious music incredibly kitsch scenes of “God’s Creations,” such as an ocean sunset and lush forests. These are of course interspersed with American TV shows (edited for sex and violence).
The religious “deviants,” then, are people like my brother Abdul Huq, who adopt an American style and with it an American secularism. Sort of. To be secular means you pray only once or twice a day and not five times, miss out on some meals with the family, and in general keep more things to yourself. By these standards every single teenager in the States is a deviant. Something I quickly discovered is that religion is linked with community, secularism with privacy. Prayer in Islam is communal, remember? When I questioned my oldest host brother Ilyass (25) on this topic, he didn’t think prayer could be accomplished by oneself—i.e. in a quiet room or a secluded garden. That doesn’t count. Knowing what he does about America’s culture of narcissism and individualism, then, it’s no wonder he thinks our country is so completely screwed up.
There’s lots more to say, so expect a Part II and then some. Post questions if you have them. Until then, I want to repeat to you what some of my “deviant” non-religious high school friends in the street said to me the other day, after exchanging some Hasheesh amongst themselves. In French: “Be careful what you say. There are no secrets in this city!”
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Posted by: mortgageloan at April 8, 2008 4:59 AM
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called reminded then eventually It is the tree, sour, planted is still my forts huge tree and went
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