The Simple Life – My family’s daily routine was pretty varied and consisted of tending the goats/cows/sheep/donkeys/chickens, overseeing the agriculture, extracting water from the well, and lots of cooking. Obviously, life is stratified by gender to an extreme, with the men and women rarely participated in the same activities, sleeping in the same room, or even eating at the same dinner table. Even the dreri (young children) tended to latch onto their parent of the same gender the vast majority of the time.
To break it down, the men deal with agriculture, animals, and going to local souqs (markets) several times a week to buy supplies and sell their own products. This means guys are ultra busy on market days as well as during harvesting season (my dad insisted to me in private that the men worked harder than the women); however, there was a tacit understanding among the Americans that the women are the superior workers, constantly cooking, weaving, crafting dyes, sowing, washing clothes—all while pregnant, since families with five or more children is common. (As an aside, the textiles they make are extraordinarily beautiful and the product of weeks of hard work and patience; afterwards, they get sold for peanuts to profit-minded shopkeepers in Marrakech and Tangier, who sell them to tourists at jacked prices of $50 or more).
In terms of living conditions, the movie Babel got it right. Facilities are pretty basic and houses generally consisted of two or three small rooms with dirt floors and not a bed in sight. Showers are taken in an insulated, tee-pee like tent using a bucket of lukewarm water. Flies and insects abound, and I learned very quickly to sit cross-legged or Turkish-toilet style in the absence of any chairs. Even more amazing is that women cooked on the floors using only their hands—perhaps this is why many women in the village had larger-than-average hands and fingers, the product of a lifetime of calluses.
To some of us, that lifestyle sounds pretty awful, but this seems to be a classic case of “ignorance is bliss.” My family, having grown up in the village and lived there all their lives, seemed quite content and had little misgivings when I asked them if this “simple life pleased them.” Indeed, the only person I met who was genuinely unhappy was my neighbor, who confided to me and another American that she didn’t like it here and felt trapped. Not surprisingly, she had been raised in a medium-sized city until she was 18, after which she was forced to marry her cousin and live with him in the mountains. I could tell she was the center of much tension in the village (my family for one did not understand her thought-processes well); she was also extraordinarily sharp-witted and intelligent, and I think she would excel as a lawyer or businesswoman.
This entire experience is especially humbling, however, when one considers that a significant percentage of Moroccans (over 40%, I believe) actually live in rural conditions. This simple life is in fact quite common, and I wonder too if there’s a similar side to the United States that stays mostly underground, hidden from the attention of the media and government. And if there is, I wonder, maybe that’s exactly how they want it.
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