A dozen entries later and I still haven’t typed a word about cultural interactions with Moroccans—you know, the one thing every traveler fears screwing up for fear of awkwardness and major cultural misunderstandings. Okay, so it’s not that dramatic, but there are some key ideas about Moroccan culture worth knowing if you plan on making the trip out here. To make this entry more fun—or maybe just weird, we shall see—I’ll highlight these differences through the lens of my favorite movie, Ridley Scott’s Crusader thriller Kingdom of Heaven.
Language – In Kingdom of Heaven, attention is given to the frequent use of religious language in everyday speech, by both the Arabs and the Europeans. A scene in the early part of the movie shows Muslims in Italy praying along the beach, kneeling towards Mecca and chanting “Praise be to God.” “It is proper to praise him.” Although Europe may have changed some, the situation is still similar for the majority of Morocco (and the United States!). Before eating, it is proper to utter Bismillah (In the name of God); after asking somebody if they’re feeling okay, to say Al-hamdullah (Praise be to God). There is no word for “hopefully.” Instead, try Insha’allah—literally, if God wills. These aren’t just choice phrases, but are used constantly. There are several others, too, and Moroccans really appreciate it when Westerners use the name of God correctly, and sincerely.
Fatalism – The idea that all things are determined by God is another theme presented in the movie (although its validity is questioned). Halfway through, when Nasir's servant dies in a heated battle, Nasir solemnly notes, “It was the end of his time” and displays no sign of shock or remorse. Perhaps that’s why Insha’allah is the most commonly-used religious phrase—and the one most provocative to Americans. Take my American friend who, though her real-life mom was seriously ill in California, received no condolences or hugs from her Moroccan family, who blithely kept repeating, “Don’t worry. She’ll get better if God wills.” It’s a very fatalistic attitude, and one that pushes the power away from the individual. Using the same principle, the phrase can also be used as a convincing cop-out for any situation. When my little brother asked me to bring him back a sandwich from a restaurant I was going to, I told him “If God wills” (I’m not joking). Unfortunately for him, God did not will.
Pride and Formalities – The two main Arab characters in Kingdom of Heaven, Salah Al-Din and Nasir (above), have a certain air of pride and nobility about them. They stand assuredly, interact with colleagues formally, and even speak in English as if it were translated from Classical Arabic. This was no mistake on the part of the producers. Although the formal nature of the culture has disintegrated—both because of its distance from the Middle East and the influence of globalization—essentially Moroccans are still very proud of their history and culture (the national slogan is “God, Country, King”). This one is difficult to describe with examples, but the simple fact that all major Moroccan cities are divided into an “old city” and a “new city,” whereby the old cities have resisted modernization and managed to retain their narrow streets, donkeys, blacksmiths, tanneries, and other aspects of medieval life, is a testament to this.
My thesis, in case the metaphor went over your head, is that Moroccan culture is still in many ways medieval—or to be more accurate, the clear product of a deeply-rooted medieval past. Look for this idea in Part II. Disclaimer: This is not necessarily a bad thing. Keep in mind that the Middle Ages were a Golden Age for the empires of the Middle-East and North Africa.
Click for photo: My little brother, Hamza. Although he has grown at least an inch since September, he never got his sandwich.
Click for photo: Leather workers at the tanneries in the old medina of Fes, a city which clings to much of its medieval history.
Click for photo: Another shot of the Fes tanneries.